7 diciembre, 2010scotty 7 comentarios
Where do I start?
Switzerland: a land I thought was stuffy, old and full of boring financiers. I also thought that nothing much went on there due to its incredible neutrality (they don’t have an army of their own and a friend told me that all houses have bunkers in case of war!).
So last week, Fernando and I left Madrid for a 6 day trip there thinking that it would be pretty (which it was), interesting (which it was) but not so fun. We were so wrong!
Our first two nights (Thursday and Friday) were in Geneva – the second most expensive city in the world. It was nice and it was exciting to see snow (coming from Sydney, Australia, I haven’t seen much of that magical white stuff in my life so whenever I do, it’s always exciting)! Fernando and I ate really good Chinese food to warm us up (it was about -1 degree Celsius!), walked around the city, found some cute snowmen and got photos with them, went up the bell tower in the cathedral and had chats with many locals along the way, trying to gather as much information about what we should do for our next 4 days in Switzerland as we could! We knew we wanted to try out the famous Glacier Express train (with panoramic carriages!) but didn’t know what else to do, or where to go!
With more information, and suggestions on where to go (almost everybody said Zermatt was a winner destination), we jumped on a tram (using our FREE Geneva transport card – I read everybody gets one when they stay in Geneva which I think is a great tourism initiative by the local government) and went to see the UN headquarters for Europe, which just so happens to be in Geneva! It was 4pm, so we missed the last tour (you need to take a guided tour to see the place) but just being there and seeing all the world flags lining the long driveway was cool enough!
After a very fun dinner with some family friends of mine, and a well earned rest, Fer and I were off! It was Saturday morning: nice and sunny, but still really cold! We lined up at the rail ticket counter at Geneva station, still unsure of where to go, and bought our Swiss Rail Passes (which work all over the network – see here). At 195 CHF (Swiss Franc), or roughly $200 AUD or 150€, it’s not cheap, but for 4 days of unlimited rail (including high speed), bus and ferry transport, plus 50% discounts on mountaintop railways, it is actually really good value! One leg of our journey would have cost at least 150 CHF if we didn’t have our pass. So it paid for itself in half a day!
Our first stop was beautiful Lausanne, on Lac Léman. Although we had my big suitcase (I needed my big jackets for the cold!), we got out and on our way to see the lake, I noticed a café that said “vin chaud” on the board (hot wine in French – we were still in the French speaking part of Switzerland; German, French and Italian (in order of commonness) are the 3 languages of Switzerland)). One of our ‘things’ to do in Switzerland was try hot wine! So we went in and I asked, in my best (read: bad) French accent, for two vin chauds. Well, of course we were served two normal red wines weren’t we!
Anyway, it was really nice wine and we enjoyed the atmosphere of the comfy café.
On the road again – with the Samsonite trudging along the snow covered (both melted and frozen) footpath behind me. Then Lac Léman popped out from behind a beautiful castle-like hotel! With the snow-covered alps behind it, and the sunshine beating down upon it, it was like something from a fairytale – a winter wonderland – de verdad! After a quick stop at the lake (we were hoping to get the ferry across the lake, but we missed it by 1 hour!), and at the grocery store for supplies for lunch on the train (love Coop – a big supermarket chain in Switzerland), it was back to the train station to decide if we were to go to Brig or Visp next…
Next stop: Brig! And lucky we did because from Brig we caught the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn to Zermatt – we didn’t know anything about Zermatt except that we should go there. My expectations of a small mountain village were met and exceeded by Zermatt. It was a full ski resort with all the trimmings: from a full supermarket, restaurants and high end stores (including many that sold the beautiful Swiss watches) to walking trails to the top of the runs and a fun and exciting atmosphere. It was brilliant! We arrived at about 9pm and luckily, the very helpful information centre helped us find a hotel and told us about the village. Did I mention it was about -14 degrees Celsius?
The next day, from Zermatt, we took Switzerland’s oldest electrified cogwheel train to the Gornergrat (3089m above sea level) where we were surrounded by an impressive mountain range, with an amazing view of the Matterhorn. And when I say amazing, I mean it! After a very fun 2 hour walk on the snow covered trails back down to Zermatt, and a day of exploring the area, we were all snowed out and couldn’t wait to get back to our great little hotel (with views of the Matterhorn – not from our balcony though
).
A new day (Monday) and a new Swiss city! Chur, watch out, here we come! Or so we thought…
After a very early wake up and a hasty breakfast (and many, “Scott! Hurry up!”’s), we ran to the Zermatt rail station only to find that the 10am Glacier Express that we had planned on getting to Chur or St. Moritz wasn’t running this week! It started again December 12 for the new season! Oh well. We recouped our thoughts and went back to our trusty Swiss Rail booklet with the network map in it. After talking to the ever helpful Swiss Rail staff, we decided on Lucerne for a night and then an 8am train to Geneva the next day (Tuesday) to make our 1:30pm flight home.
10:39am rolled around, and so did our train back to Brig. The snow covered mountains were breathtaking! We went through a little town called St Niklaus (with a GIANT Santa Claus!), saw horses galloping in the snow and enjoyed the warm atmosphere of the train – both temperature and people-wise – the fellow passengers were very talkative
.
From Brig, we continued on the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn to Andermatt where we could stretch our legs a bit and then get another train to Lucerne (or Luzern in the local German spelling). On both of those legs, we were gobsmacked at the landscapes we saw – from snow capped mountains and valleys, to lake-side towns (again with snow capped mountains behind them) and views that looked like scenes from Christmas movies.
Lucerne = magical, charming and lovely! As soon as we arrived we both said that there was something about it that we liked. This was after asking the lovely Gaby in the tourist information office where we could stay for the night – she spoke FIVE languages: German, Italian, English, French and Spanish! So when Fernando let slip “Sí” instead of “Yes” one time, we all continued the conversation in Spanish
. Anyway, we found a place for just 93 CHF per night (an ETAP, part of the French “Accor group”, so you know it’s going to be ok) and went to explore the city! We visited the traditional Christmas markets where we tried the glühwein (aka mulled wine) and two types of wurst (German sausages). Not to mention this great cheese and bread dish called raclette! Anyway, the night was great – exploring the city, trying hot wine (finally
) and just taking in the sights and sounds of this wonderful city!
The next day, the 8am train to Geneva was used as a second bed: snoozing most of the way to Geneva. The beautiful snow covered fields were not missed however – I will never forget one particular field with so much fog that it looked like you were staring into a white nothingness, until a car’s headlights shone through and brought me back to reality.
Overall, Switzerland now holds a special place in my heart. The experiences I had. The people I met. The food I enjoyed… a lot! It all comes together to create one of my favourite trips, ever. I strongly recommend you include it on your next itinerary – or make it a special trip on its own. It’s worth it.
Have you been to Switzerland before? What did you do? What did you think of it? I would really like to hear your thoughts/experiences! Let me know.

